This time round, New York Fashion Week showed little progress and a steadfast dedication to current trends. Many shows were derivative to the point of being repetitive; not so much re-invention as simply re-doing. This isn't to say that it was completely disappointing; most of the existing trends which designers chose to carry over into AW16 are ones that I love and am happy to see will survive for another season, but fresh ideas felt thin on the ground.
Thank goodness, then, for the likes of Marc Jacobs, Rodarte and Rosie Assoulin for stepping off the tracks and offering up a palette cleanser. For Marc Jacobs and Rodarte, gothic decadence was the over arching narrative. Jacobs tread the line between grunge and sportswear whilst the Mulleavy's favoured an altogether more feminine aesthetic; even sending bridal looks down the runway. Assoulin's pieces had their own sense of decadence but interpreted in a contemporary way. Her exaggerated silhouettes acted as the connecting thread but the variation from look to look showed her desire to free her designs from the shackles of a single theme or concept.
|Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Rosie Assoulin|
There were other highlights among the New York schedule. Gypsy Sport's casting was inspired, reflecting the inclusive, positive attitude that permeates their collections, and casting in general felt noticeably more diverse. It's certainly not where it needs to be but it's a long overdue step in the right direction for sure.
5. Don't tie up loose ends.
So, what can we take away from a fashion week that whispered rather than shouted? Despite the lack of any true new direction, there are lessons to be learned...
1. The new way to wear your bag is nestled snugly under your armpit.
2. The 1970s still reign supreme. Flares and pussy bows aren't going anywhere.
|Proenza Schouler, See by Chloe, Proenza Schouler|
3. Lamé isn't lame.
|Tory Burch, Saint Laurent, Beaufille|
4. Don't wear one jacket when you can wear two.
|Suno, Zimmermann, Jill Stuart|
|Public School, ADEAM, Proenza Schouler (all images Vogue.com)|